'i've dreamed myself a thousand times around the world'

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

Carnaval. Wow.

(Warning: There are many run-ons in this entry. and a few swear words)
Fuck. Fuck you to all the people who have molested me in the streets. Who have grabbed me by the hair to try and kiss me; to the countless people who had their hands in my pockets searching for money. But fuck it was amazing.
I want to describe my last couple of days at Carnaval as the craziest thing I have ever seen in my life, but I feel crazy just doesn’t do justice to the utter mayhem of Carnaval. No more will I ever say Vegas is the craziest place on earth. No doubt Salvador’s Carnalval has got it beat.
I have been feeling better since my ‘hospitalization’ (besides the cold I now have from being crammed in the streets with millions of other people for hours on end) and have braved the pipoca crowds twice now. Once on Saturday and again on Monday. Tonight is the last night of Carnaval and I am a bit dissappointed that I wasn't able to participate and see more. But with my energy being as low as it is, and still being on a soda cracker diet, I have to take what I can get, or rather what I can stand. Maybe when I'm old and gray I'll journey back and see how Carnaval has changed....anyway...
There are two different parade routes in Salvador, one more traditional in the down town/historic center and the other just added a few years ago running along the beach, near our house.
On Saturday Meghan (my roommate) and I went to Barra (the beach route) to jump and dance in the street. There have been heavy rain storms for the past few weeks leaving the streets filled with mud. Mix the mud with trash everywhere from Carnaval-goers, and an overwhelming smell of urine and bo and the scene is set. Surprisingly the spirit of Carnaval, the singing of the same 10 songs over and over again just whisks you away, at least for the first hour or so. I think if I would have been absolutely wasted I wouldn't have minded when I caught a guy with his hand in my pocket staring me dead in the eye as if to say 'why don't you have any money in there?' Regardless, dancing in the streets next to a semi truck blasting the music of some braziilian band that everyone seems to love , singing songs I didn't know the words to an hour prior, I'd say its worth it.
I am a bit more hesitant to say my Monday night endeavor was as successful. Gabby and I got seperated from the rest of the group and ended up walking the entire downtown parade route. A walk that would normally take 30-40 mintues took us close to 3 hours. We had death grips on each others hands, because if one was to let go the other would literally be swept away in the crowd. There were points where I actually was making no effort to move; the force behind me so stong that my legs were forced to walk forward to the left and to the right.
A common practice amoung men here is to grab, touch, molest and attempt to kiss any girl they see. As Gabby and I made our way through the seemingly endless mob of people I started to charge ahead during a break in the music. As I broke into a slow walk (the fastest pace I ever went) I realized that Gabby wasn't moving. I whipped my head back to see that some man had his arms wrapped around her waist. I turned and walked against the crowd (not advisable) and in what I would consider something close to a bout of rage, I elbowed the guy who tried to lock me into some sick make-out pose, put my arms around Gabby and did some sort of spin forklift move that freed her.
We finally met up with the rest of the group who had a similar experience going down a side street, that also had a parade on it. I'm glad I went out and was able to see the entire route and party how the locals party, but I'm not sure I would do it again...sober.

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